A visit to Tyrells is an extremely pleasant experience. Not just because the food is worthy of being served in the most lauded restaurants in the country, but also because you almost believe you are in one of them, with the elegant but subtle décor, quiet, efficient and accommodating service, and comfortable surroundings, complemented by imaginative and unobtrusive lighting.

The only thing to keep you from being entirely fooled is the price, which as you would expect from a restaurant serving food of this calibre, is not bargain basement, but is a nice surprise after what feels like a luxurious and top-notch experience.

Your meal begins with complimentary freshly-baked bread rolls swiftly followed by your starter, which could be the tender seared breast of wood pigeon on parsnip purée with pancetta crisp, or richly-flavoured smoked goat's cheese, on a mixed leaf salad with wood-fired peppers. Choosing between mains is a difficult decision to make, but the belly of pork with sweet potato and garlic hash and apple fritter comes highly recommended, as does the porcini mushroom ravioli, with red cabbage compote and lemon thyme cream.

The selection of desserts may provoke yet more difficult choices, as even stomachs previously decided to be full may be swayed to make room for such delightful temptations as lavender-scented pannacotta with sweet fresh strawberries and buttery shortbread; and chocolate truffle torte, light and fresh, with orange and cardamom cream adding an exotic feel.

All this is complemented by a varied and accommodating wine list with wines from all over the world, meaning there is something for every palate and every pocket. This restaurant is a real find for those looking for an exceptional but affordable meal.

AA Rosettes